Ice climbing technology
----- Rock climbers who come into contact with ice climbing will find that they are strikingly similar. As the climber progresses, he must move his body weight from one balance point to another, using leg strength as much as possible. They are “climbing with their eyes†and consider several steps in advance. On the ice, as on the rock wall, climbers should use the points on the surface as much as possible to find grooves, protrusions as hand points, foot points, and conditions for using ice climbing tools. Of course, the difference between the two is self-evident. When climbing ice, one must rely on hand tools and crampons and must understand the use of unstable points. The ice changes every season or even every day.
I. TECHNIQUE OVERVIEW
There are basically two basic techniques for ice climbing: German technology and French technology. The steepness of the hot ice slope, the condition of the ice, and the strength and confidence of the ice climber can each select the appropriate technology. The two types of technology are not contradictory, and most people use both techniques at the same time.
1, French technology (flat-footing) (flat-footing)
Step-by-step method: During the ice climbing process, keep the feet as parallel as possible to the ice surface so that each point on the crampons will step on the ice. Using this method on a steep slope is more difficult because the ankle must bend very hard.
As long as they are mastered, French-style techniques are the simplest and hardest way to climb harder, slightly gentler and steeper ice surfaces. To master this technology, we must have a good balance and coordination, and we must use crampons and hail firmly and confidently.
Flat-step method: Footwork: Progress Slow slope 0-15 degree duck step Slow slope 15-30 degree step method Medium slope, steep slope 30-65 degrees or steeper
Hail grip: Stick style Mid to moderate 0-40 degree side Mid 35-50 degree cone type Steep slope 45-65 degrees or higher
2. German-style technology (front-pointing)
(This technique) German and Austrian climbers improved this technique when climbing hard snow and ice slopes in the Eastern Alps. Experienced ice climbers use this technique to climb the steepest and most difficult ice slopes. With this technology in hand, even ordinary ice climbers can quickly climb to places where French-style techniques are difficult or even impossible to climb.
Contrary to the elegance and complexity of the flat-step method, the front kick method is simple and straightforward. It is similar to the snow slope when it is kicked directly on the snow slope. The difference is that when ice climbing, the ice claw is kicked into the ice and the icing claws rise again. Rightly mastered, the front kick is coordinated, and it requires a good balance. The weight of the body is placed on crampons. Whether it's kicking crampons, using hand tools, or moving on ice, it must be about efficiency.
The scope of application of the two technologies overlaps. It should be used according to the conditions of the ice and the individual preferences of the ice climber.
Before the kick method using the brief table: step method: kick the 45-95 degrees to the elevation angle
Hail and other tools grip: low-type steep slope of 45-55 degrees high-type steep slope of 50-60 degree cone type steep slope of 45-60 degrees traction extremely steep 60-90 degrees to elevation angle
Second, no crampons climbing ice
Ice climbing can be done without ice cramps when the ice slope is slow, but it must be balanced. The body must move from one balance point to the next. At each point, the medial foot (towards the hill) is at the top of the front and the lateral foot (towards the foot of the hill) is trying to reach out. The weight is concentrated on the bones of the medial foot and the muscle burden is reduced as much as possible. Hold the ice axe with the hand on the mountain, only when the body and feet are in balance can move. The foot can only move after the hail has stepped forward. When ice climbing, pay attention to using irregular spots on the ice as footholds.
1. Dig the stairs to climb the ice The first method to climb the steep ice wall is to dig the steps. After the invention of the crampons, digging steps is not necessary, but it is still necessary to use. If you do not have crampons or if the ice wall is shorter and does not require time-consuming crampons, you can still use the method of digging steps. If the ice is broken or inexperienced, it is better to dig up the steps. Even with crampons, digging some small steps can increase the safety factor. Steps can also be used as a small platform to take a break.
There are two kinds of steps: "Zigzag" and "Linear". In both cases, stand in balance before digging the steps. The usual steps are to stand firm, cut two steps, hit the hail to ensure safety, and after fixing the three points, reach a new balance point, cut two steps, and so on. On a gentle slope, a single zigzag shape is generally adopted, and a double zigzag shape is used on the moderate slope to ensure balance. Linear type is used on steep walls.
To dig three-character steps on relatively soft ice (such as the summer ice tower), we must first stand in a balanced position and hold the ice outside on the outside hand (downhill). With the shoulder as the axis, the hailstone is naturally waved, and the horizontal edge blade is mainly used to dig into the ice surface. The main reason is that it consumes more energy than the ice on the stem, and can be used with both hands. Repeatedly, he plucked a hole out of the ice. The width of the hole should accommodate one foot, and the side of the hole should have a small plane to hold the toe. Then remove the ice stains with a pickaxe, and one step will be done. (On a steeper ice wall, you can chisel a little hand and use it to dig a step).
If the ice is hard and easily cracked, the cusp tip is horizontally plunged into the ice to determine the underside of the pedestal, and the foot will not be damaged when the ice is drilled vertically. The steps should be slightly recessed inward so that the feet do not slide easily. The steps on the gentle slope can be smaller and can accommodate some feet, but the stairs on the steep slope must be able to accommodate the entire foot. The open-pickers made the stairs a little larger so that the whole team could use them. When preparing to change the orientation of the zigzag, first cut a large step, and both feet should be able to lay down, and then turn the body to change the grip position. During the entire step of digging the stairs, it is necessary to use a belt to put the hammer on the wrist, which is more labor-saving. In case of hail, it will not fall. When you climb straight to the steep walls, straight steps are made. The two steps are equal to each other, are about shoulder width apart, and are perpendicular to each other for easy climbing. Each step serves as a hand point and a foot point, so each level must be able to hold the front half of the ice boots. At the same time, there must be a small bump to do hand points. Cut the steps first and make a hand point with the horizontal edge. If you want to cut the steps from the top down, the easiest way is to directly chisel a ladder-like steps. That is, first stand firm, face down, cut two steps down at the station. The lower lateral foot first goes down the hill and then the lower inner foot goes down the hill. After standing firm. Each time only a step is drilled, the lower and outer feet are then stabilized, and then a step is drilled and the inner foot is lowered. The problem of digging steps was performed in the open air, and it was both difficult and difficult. The ice is very slippery. So usually need protection. In order to cope with emergencies, we must use every opportunity to practice the technique of digging steps with ice axes on weekdays.
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